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Date: 18-JulJul-2010


FOR less than the price of a return air-ticket to Taipei, you can savour Taiwanese culinary delights dished up by James Wang at his Taiwan Restaurant on Jalan Imbi. 

The self-taught chef’s restaurants back in his native Taiwan are a hit, not least with such celebrities as Andy Lau, Aaron Kwok, Lee Shinje and AMei.  

Right now, however, the 48-year-old Taipei restaurateur is more interested in enticing Malaysians to his Taiwan Restaurant here for a taste of home-styled Taiwanese specialities. 

“This outlet actually started as a steamboat eatery 1½ years ago but as more customers asked for cooked dishes, I decided to forgo my initial steamboat menu and started serving my country’s native dishes instead,” he says. 

“To ensure authenticity, I get the necessary sauces and ingredients from Taiwan. It’s impossible to prepare a real Taiwanese meal without the customary sauces and ingredients, just as no Japanese or Korean delicacies can be replicated without the customary condiments and raw produce,” he stresses. 

 

James Wang

According to Wang, a typical Taiwanese meal commences with xiao cher — small dishes of cold appetisers such as Firm Beancurd Slices with Chilli (RM5, small; RM10, large), Braised Hard-Boiled Egg in Soya Sauce (RM5, small; RM10, large) and Braised Pig’s Ears (RM5, small; RM10, large), whose function is to prime the palate. The last, we discover, is notable for its crunchy texture and specially concocted sauce. 

“Diners who want to sample a true taste of Taiwan must order the isle’s most renowned dish — San Pei Chee or Three Cups Chicken (RM28.90, small; RM36.90, large),” he says. “Three key ingredients go into it: old ginger, minced garlic and lots of fresh basil leaves. They are matched with the three essential condiments of sesame oil, rice wine and a cup of signature house sauce.” 

Wang finds it appalling that some eateries should attempt to localise the dish by using dark soya sauce and sugar, Hua Tiao wine and a few basil leaves.  

“All those ingredients are definitely a big no-no as they completely detract from the original recipe. Another aspect that’s often overlooked is that one must use only village-bred, free-range chicken to give the overall dish extra bite,” he emphasises. 

 

The Three Cups Chicken.

Another must-have dish here is the Lu Rou Far’n or Minced Pork Rice (RM6.90 per bowl). Wang tells us that the proper way to eat it is to pour the braised minced pork in a mildly sweet sauce over steamed white rice and then ensure that everything is thoroughly mixed together. 

His dish of Steamed Fish with Soya Sauce (RM29.90, small; RM42.90, large) is bound to leave an impression on those who have a penchant for fish. Seven different ingredients, including light soy sauce and Worchestershire sauce, are blended together to make this dish. What the five remaining ingredients are, Wang is understandably not keen to divulge. 

Wang’s other trump card is the Special Beancurd (RM28.90, small; RM38.90, large) which he produces himself daily.  

“The soya beans are soaked for nine hours before they’re ground and pressed. It’s a time-consuming and laborious process but I can assure you that no sek koh fun (gypsum powder) is added to coagulate the beancurd,” he says.  

Although the resultant texture is slightly coarser, the beancurd is custard-soft and has a nice rustic quality to it, thanks to the delicate kei chee or Chinese wolfberry-flavoured sauce that tops it.  

 

Firm Beancurd Slices with Chilli

The Stir-fried Taiwanese Bok Choy (RM12.90, small; RM16.90, large) is simple but deftly cooked with the jade-green vegetable remaining nice and crunchy after being precisely cooked for seven seconds on high heat. 

Taiwan Restaurant’s interior may not be plush, but it is air-conditioned and sports wall murals depicting Taiwan’s popular landmarks and country scenes, plus a framed work of calligraphy.  

Service is prompt despite all the cooking being done by Wang almost single-handedly. We had no problems on two separate visits but be prepared to wait a little should you run into a crowd at the restaurant. Once your food arrives, though, you can be assured the dishes will come in swift succession.

Contact Information:

Taiwan Restaurant (non-halal)
A taste of Taiwan 80, Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur.
+603-21449158

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